The Secretary-General Comes To Norfolk.

I had the pleasure of touring Dr. William Shija, Secretary-General of the Commonwealth Parliamentary Association, and his personal assistant, Lusanne Chesham, around Norfolk Island in November.  Dr. Shija, who is originally an MP from Tanzania, is effectively the CEO of the Association (the CPA), with responsibility for coordinating the work of parliamentarians from over 50 British Commonwealth member countries.  He is a very learned and charming person and careful with his words, as would be expected of the administrative head of such a diverse international organization.  He would introduce himself as William, but the people around him addressed him as “Secretary-General”, and so did I.  At least I did until I heard him sing.

Secretary-General William Shija
 

The Secretary-General was on Norfolk Island to speak at a conference entitled, The Future of Norf’k Language and Culture, on his way to a regional CPA conference in the Cook Islands the following week.  He travels much of the year from his headquarters in London and mentioned he decided to visit Norfolk prior to the Cook Islands conference, rather than any number of other member places along the way, because of what he had heard of its history and beauty.  Norfolk actively participates in the CPA through the Australian regional branch.  I toured with the Secretary-General and Mrs. Chesham the day before they left.

It’s no secret that Norfolk speaks for itself on a sunny day.  It can call to you and welcome you in simple ways that even seasoned travellers notice.  That day was such a day.  The skies were clear and the seas a deep, cobalt blue: perfect for sightseeing.  I first took them to Mt. Pitt, our second highest point, which lies in the middle of the Norfolk Island National Park.  From Mt. Pitt, you can view almost the entire circumference of the Island.  It was in the Park discussing some of our unique species of plants and animals that I learned Mrs. Chesham was originally from Tonga.  Wan she ai’len gehl.   We started identifying plants Norfolk and Tonga had in common and from there quickly segued to which plants were good for plaiting and weaving.  As a Pacific Islander, I guessed that not too far beneath her measured diplomatic exterior was someone who probably liked to laugh.  She giggles, with a glint in her eyes and a shy hand to her mouth.   It was great to see.

What I often say to visitors is to pack a lunch and just go for a drive.  Everywhere on Norfolk is a good place for a picnic, and everywhere we went locals and visitors alike were at tables or on blankets fully enjoying their surroundings.  I would introduce the Secretary-General to people and I believe he was genuinely taken by everyone’s friendliness and informality and affection for the Island.  It was initially “Secretary-General Shija”, but I quickly learned to let him introduce himself as “William”.  But the highlight of the day, for me and I learned for the Secretary-General and Mrs. Chesham, was a small moment later in the day when we went into St. Barnabas Chapel. 

Until the Chapel, the Secretary-General’s questions and remarks about Norfolk were observant and kind, but fairly generic.  They were the comments of a diplomat who travels the world and is aware of being quoted.  But when we entered the Chapel, which is ornate and beautiful and described here, a friend of mine, Naomi Hallett, happened to be inside playing the 380-pipe Willis organ.  Naomi and I will periodically meet at the Chapel, she to play and I to sing, so at some point it seemed natural that we play something for our guests.  The selection seemed natural, too: the traditional Norfolk hymn, “Oakleigh”, composed by my great-grandfather, Gustav Quintal.  Neither had heard a Norfolk hymn before.

I opened a hymn book, Naomi started to play and we quietly began the hymn.  By the start of the third verse, Mrs. Chesham, who up to that time had been somewhat reserved, was singing along in beautiful harmony.  If you had never heard a Tongan Congregational Church Choir, you were hearing one now.  And by the fourth verse, I could hear the Secretary-General’s baritone tentatively chime in.  He, too, had a church choir background, but from an ocean and continent away.  By the fifth and final verse, there we were singing this most Norfolk of hymns in St. Barnabas Chapel in full voice, with 380 clarion pipes resounding in the background.   Wow.  It was a sublime, wholly unexpected moment of cultural fellowship and something I’m certain the Secretary-General and Mrs. Chesham never thought would occur on a routine trip abroad: to sing with abandoned joy. 

We all know it’s difficult to remain formal after a good sing-along, especially if you don’t hit all the notes.  We said our goodbyes to Naomi and exited in a wonderfully light-hearted mood.  It was our last stop and on the way back to their hotel we used music and the role of religion to explore those elements of Norfolk’s cultural history they probably wouldn’t find anywhere else in the world.  I think they agree.  It sure was fun. 

Rick Kleiner